article by enocentrico .
Cantina visited June 5 2007
Tra diluvio, lavori in corso, deviazioni in centro ad Alba nell'ora di punta, raggiungiamo il paese di Monforte d'Alba.
Monforte è uno dei paesi più importanti del comprensorio del Barolo. Qui il nebbiolo da decenni consente di produrre vini di grande struttura, capaci di sfidare il tempo.
Ma la visita di oggi riguarda una cantina relativamente "nuova", una cantina che in pochi anni è riuscita a salire alla ribalta con bottiglie che sono entrate a far parte della storia del Barolo, la Conterno Fantino .
Ma prima un ripasso " guidaiolo "
(To clarify that the 2007 editions of the guides, reported the opinions of Barolo vintage 2002. Conterno Fantino, following the year almost as difficult as most companies did not produce the cru and then decided to produce a generic no indication of '02 Barolo vineyard.)
AIS: 4 bunches for the '02 Barolo, Monprà '03, '05 Dolcetto, Barbera '05
Espresso: three-star business.
Gambero Rosso: 2 glasses Barolo '02, '03 Monprà , Bastìa '03, '05 Vignot , Nebbiolo '05.
It reached the small road from the center of Monforte door to the broom, after a few turns to get on top of the Bricco Bastia where he established the company since 1994. But the story begins
more distant and "wheel" around a magic date, the 1982.
That year, while Zoff lifted the World Cup in Spain, Claudio Conterno and Guido Fantino two young men in their early twenties, with shoulder una tradizione di famiglie che vendevano l'uva alle grandi cantine e con tutta l'incoscienza giovanile, si indebitano, comprano delle vasche, una pressa e delle botti fondando l'azienda Conterno Fantino .
Si dividono subito i compiti, Claudio, grande amante della sua terra, si occuperà del vigneto e Guido si muoverà tra vasche e botti, ma con ruoli anche intercambiabili quando serve.
Ci vorrà pochissimo a raggiungere le vette qualitative, il 1982 è stata anche una grande annata, dal vigneto Sorì Ginestra, portano in cantina delle uve di nebbiolo splendide e così creano il loro primo capolavoro. Nel 1986, in piena crisi del vino ed methanol scandal in full, released Barolo Ginestra Sorì 1982 and 1987, the authoritative magazine Wine Spectator dedicates the front page to this "great" (for those who had the good fortune to taste) wine.
"Too bad that would not translate immediately into a success," Claudio told me in a tasting recently, "because que lli Barolo were years when you had to give it to customers who bought you the much required Dolcetto, but it was a satisfaction that has given us the strength to continue! "
to the success you have to wait a short time, however, the triptych vintages '88, '89, '90 do the rest. Today
Conterno Fantino has over 23 hectares of vineyards, all on the town of Monforte d'Alba and distributed between 250 and 540 meters altitude, the vineyards of Ginestra , Mosconi, Bussia Sottana, Ornate, San Pietro and Bricco Bastia . Planted with chardonnay , Dolcetto, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon and Nebbiolo with a mean age of the vines that goes' between 15 and 40 years old and a production is around 130,000 bottles per year, contentions equally between Italy and abroad.
to "help" Claudio Conterno in the vineyards, there is an agronomist Gian Piero Romana. CC: "a boy who grew up with us," while in the cellar along with Guido's now his son Fabio (guess what class is?) Was born in 1982, graduated from the enology school in Alba, divides the his time between ball and barrel.
through the gate and parked the car.
to receive us over the "hostess" Alda, wife of Guido is friendly young Chiara Giachino, the court of Conterno Fantino six years.
Alda and Clare as well as managing the administration, customers receive and have a smile and a kind word for everyone.
We look forward to the arrival of the Patron Claudio Conterno (Guido Fantino was in London that day), we decided, due to flood in progress, to postpone the visit to the vineyards, and then only to visit the winery. We note immediately
extreme cleanliness in the cellar (and this is not because came the team Atissimo Ceto ..) and Claudio, who in the meantime reached us, tells us, "cleaning in the basement is important! We must always work in a clean and sanitized , bacteria are always there, ready to strike and then wine would suffer "
But as we have before us one who devotes most of his time in the vineyard , could only start the conversation from there!
CC: "We annually spend about 600 hours of labor per hectare in the vineyard. Even if you do not conduct our biodynamic viticulture with, we have taken some of the characteristics and applied in our vineyards, with what we call rational viticulture. In Fall
pass between the rows with the mechanical equipment, not Rotary to open the soil and fed only with organic substances. Alternatively, the vineyards have sown field bean and legumes and let the natural grass. We also use the inter-vine and tipping machine in sottofilari without the use of herbicides. "
EC : " We've talked about organic fertilizers. From what they are made? "
CC: " The compost used was a mixture of cow manure from a farm of Monforte with plant residues of our company. In addition apply a plant health management with the use of copper and sulfur at low doses. "
Now we come to the" transformation "of the grapes into wine!
In the picture the winery.
The Grapes are harvested only at the right state of ripeness, brought to the cellar and then distributed on a conveyor belt , where is the selection of the best bunches.
are used for winemaking is the classic stainless steel tanks, with a frequency of two three-day replacements, and the roto-maceration.
In the picture the Roto-maceration.
EC : "In order to induce fermentation yeasts are used?"
CC: "We use only native yeasts strains, which are inoculated in the first tank, then inoculated the juice is used to induce the fermentation tanks later."
EC : "To which the grapes used roto-rubble?"
CC: "Especially for the Nebbiolo. I find that these tanks are of the wonderful tools for this vine, the berries are crushed comes in here, and this blade turning slowly, always keeps in contact with the grape skins, while pips, che sono responsabili di tannini troppo amari, precipitano sul fondo e si raccolgono nella conca"
EC : "Secondo voi, quali aspetti migliorativi, hanno portato queste vasche?"
CC: "Prima di tutto ha accorciato i tempi della fermentazione alcolica, il colore resta più vivo per via della migliore estrazione dalle bucce, i tannini sono più fini e morbidi perché non entra a contatto con i vinaccioli e poi il mosto in fermentazione non viene stressato dalle pompe per il rimontaggio. Il vino, una volta terminata la fermentazione alcoholic, falls by gravity into the barrel below where will the malolactic fermentation and aging. "
In the picture one of the rooms of aging.
EC : "barrels and large casks ... Tradition and Innovation ... I think I understand where you placed there? "
CC: " We believe that the barrels are in effect working tools as many other tools in the cellar. Tradition and Innovation The terms are limited and may not be the summary of a business philosophy because the great wine does not come from containers, but the nature of the measure mastery of the use of wood, large or small. "
In the picture a detail of the cellar.
The "Cave des Patrons."
close our visit to the "Caveau" private reserve personal patron, resting place of the older vintages of this wine cellar and "other" producers. Claudio
proudly shows us a bottle of Barolo Ginestrino '64 produced by his grandfather Attilio.
Bene, ed ora all'assaggio!
E quindi si ritorna in sala degustazione.
Si parte!
VG ascolta con attenzione Claudio Conterno .
Langhe Chardonnay Bastìa 2005
Vitigno: 100% Chardonnay .
Provenienza uve: Bricco Bastìa (dove ha sede l'azienda).
Vinificazione: fermentazione ed affinamento for 12 months in barriques .
Alcohol: 13.5%
Retail price: 20 €
sulphites Content: 22/85 (the indices denote "free" and "total" expressed in mg. / lt.)
Findings EC : 16/20
Claudio Conterno tells us that this is "his" favorite wine.
We store and talk just the step forward made by this wine as regards the balance of fruit / wood the smell. In past years, this wine has been discussed several times on his part where the needle of the aromatic balance tips more toward the latter. Pleasant
also known mineral that makes this Bastìa '05 fresher nose.
The mouth is rather less "fat" than the previous year, the pseudo-caloric sensation of alcohol is well supported by the freshness with good intensity, but with persistence less pronounced than the '04. Too bad for the bite is slightly bitter.
All in all a good wine but with a potential for future development in the coming years and to take subt il'06 eye.
Match
Cod with cream mozzarella and potato crisp
Restaurant Guido da Costigliole -S.Stefano Belbo ( CN)
The best food and wine pairing is given to opposition by the freshness and from the fullness of the palate of this wine with the sweet succulence and the trend given by the basic preparation of salt cod and the presence of the potato. To arrange themselves with the notes of lingering taste is the wine, both of the dish. The exaltation pairing ends with the closing slightly bitter note of Bastìa '05, in contrast to the "sweetness" of cream fiordilatte .
Dolcetto d'Alba Bricco Bastia 2006
Varietal: Dolcetto
Location: Bastia jug
Vinification: fermentation and subsequent aging period in stainless steel
Alcohol: 14%
Content sulphites: 18/53
Retail price: 10 Euro
EC Rating: 14.5 / 20?
A memory I believe that depth and complexity is one of the best expressions of this grape variety by Conterno Fantino. At
time of our tasting, the nose is now, much richer than the past few years but with a "closure" olfactory need a short break in the glass to "get some air."
In the mouth its thickness and its alcohol content is well supported by acidity but still an imbalance due to tannins not yet rendered that complicate the drinkability and length. I think it is only due to a non-readiness to drink, and then let the vote with a question mark due .
Match
bean flour noodles, mussels and sauce base by boiling the beans and olive oil.
Ristorante Villa Crespi, Orta San Giulio (No)
interesting characteristics of this dish, the combination of mussels and beans that create the sensations of the palate tendency sweet, good with a touch of succulent flavor of the mussels , could have a match with a particular red wine at this level. The combination comes in contrast with the notes of freshness and fruit without a "timber" of this Bricco Bastia , enhanced by the contrast in finally closing the tannin content of red wine with a pinch of extra virgin olive oil lubricity.
Barbera d'Alba 2005 Vignot
Varietal: Barbera
Origin: " blend" of different vineyards
Vinification: Fermentation in roto-maceration and subsequent aging in wood.
Alcohol: 13.5%
sulphites Content: 23/76
Retail price: 14 Euro
EC Rating: 15.5 / 20
A glass full of fruit and richness of sound with a beautiful elegance, given the difficult mastery of perfumes in the DNA of this variety.
The "mouth" is characterized by a good structure of tannins fine and well rendered, the drink is also given a beautiful finish with a decidedly fresh and not bitter.
Langhe Rosso Monpra '2004
Grapes: Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon
Origin: " blend" of grapes and other vines
Vinification: Fermentation in part in roto -maceration.
Aging: Aging separate vine for 18 months in barriques and subsequent assembly before bottling.
Alcohol: 14%
sulphites Content: 25/80
Retail price: 30 Euro
EC Rating: 18/20
I think this can compete with the beautiful '04 test Monprà '01. This has a nose from his rich and much more characterized by the "Piedmontese " and greater elegance. By contrast the '01 had a less scratchy tannins, which I do not mind found in Barolo or Barbaresco, but for these wines, known, should be drunk young, I would like to find more softness. Good
however the closure and subsequent retro-length nose.
Barolo Vigna del Gris 2003
Varietal: Nebbiolo
Source: Vigna del Gris within della Ginestra.
Vinification: in roto-maceration
Aging: 24 months, how to regulate, in barrels of French oak and 12 months in bottle.
Alcohol: 14%
sulphites Content: 27/82
Retail price: 60 Euro
EC Rating: 18/20
always difficult to judge the children of Barolo hot years, because are always unpredictable! Surely, in this Vigna del Gris need to register the elegance and lively fruit, mellow and rich without any failure of evolution. Even in the mouth is an austere wine, which is important, with good acidity, which limits the feeling pseudo-energy and characterized by a tannin up, not "dry" and that it promotes good length. To all intents and purposes a Barolo that is expected from Conterno Fantino. Unfortunately, when it is tasted in our minds (and hearts) have impressed even the "cru " monumental products in 2001. But the beauty of the variety of wines is also given the diversity of the years.
Barolo Sori Ginestra 2003
Varietal: Nebbiolo
Source: Vigna Sori Ginestra.
Vinification: in roto-maceration
Aging: 24 months, how to regulate, in French oak barrels and 12 months in bottle
Alcohol content: 14.5%
sulphites Content: 27/82
Retail price: 60 Euro
EC Rating: 18.5 / 20 HIGH CETO
same is true of the Vigna del Gris, but for this Sorì Broom's nothing else to say.
Bringing the nose the glass with the wine just poured, at first glance, I almost had a "shock"! The glass did not speak, do not send messages to my brain to be turned into excitement. The wine was closed, almost anonymous and asked myself "Where did that remains one of my favorite Barolo?"
It took a few minutes and then the wine, I almost had listened, he began to speak, I still paid a bit 'in the glass and here it comes ...
The nose was opened in a masterly way, the fruit and violet in evidence, but that at its best, the note was "bracing" that is located in Serralunga and Barolo "Ginestra" in great vintages.
also arose in the mouth, with a higher gear as almost to put a level of superiority to his brother's vintage and therefore deserve, as the award half a point ahead.
Match
The Ox (Fassone) in Barolo sauce, "Marasco" cannoli and cabbage.
Restaurant Al Sorriso-Soriso (NO)
classic match that of the Ox with Barolo sauce, but always current. It combines the structure and the succulence of the dish with great texture, alcohol and the tannic astringency, however tamed given the vintage of the wine.
But the touch of "class" is given by the perception of the balsamic note Sori Ginestra in correlation to the feeling of "plants" of cabbage.
Note positive
-First of all, the perfect harmony, for what I believe is the only farm to have a two-run family, towards a goal of quality improvement.
-perfect cleaning required in the cellar.
-The perfect use of technology in the cellar and wood, for the latter at least for the Reds.
-Bottles used are simple and classic Bordeaux, also easy to store in the cellar.
-labels "just" a bit 'in the style of the Piedmont tradition, but only for that bright orange color used for the capsule and the name of the chardonnay that certainly surprised, but we believe it is a bit' too far. Notes
negative
-Nothing significant
Conclusions
in confidence I can anticipate that, having tasted the '04 Barolo from the barrels, the wine will not be missed in the cellars of Gourmet of Altissimo Ceto. In particular, will come out as the first year, with Barolo Mosconi that has all the potential to rival the Sori Ginestra in the list of my preferences in terms of Barolo.
Finally a note of such travel, if you have the opportunity to visit the farm and be a bit 'more fortunate than we know that with time, the Bricco Bastia is one of the highest points of the Barolo area and you have a breathtaking views of vineyards and the Alps and then if you go into November, the different shades of color of the leaves of vines make these places like the paintings and give a magical touch.
Altissimo Ceto Claudio Conterno and Guido Fantino and all the staff in the cellar!
Cin! Cin!
Ivano Antonini Enocentrico
alias e-mail: @ ivano.antonini altissimoceto.it
Az. Via Ginestra Conterno Fantino
, 1
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
Tel 0173 0173 Fax 787 326 78 204
http://www.conternofantino.it/
e-mail: info@conternofantino.it
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